Morocco has a well-deserved reputation for hospitality. Throughout these past two weeks, I've been welcomed into schools, classrooms, and homes. Students and teachers especially have been excited and enthusiastic to talk with me about education, culture, religion, travel, food, art, music, technology, and a hundred other things. They've shared perspectives and listened to mine with open minds and hearts. I'm especially grateful for the hospitality of Mr. Benhammou and his family. He welcomed Ms. Cooper and me into his home and his classrooms from the beginning of our trip to the very end. He answered our questions, co-planned and co-taught with us, and drove us all over Morocco at all hours. I am also grateful to his family, his wife especially, for letting us borrow him for the week to learn about Moroccan education and culture. Since they are both teachers, they also provided insight into balancing their teaching careers with their busy family life. At both a professional and a personal level, this issue of work/life balance is one that I too am contending with, and it was reassuring to see a family in a different context work through these challenges together. As my field experience comes to an end, I'm starting to think about what I will say about Morocco when I get home. We've talked a lot about storytelling and strategies for sharing this experience with our students and communities. Though I don't have all of the details of my story yet, I know that I will start with Moroccan hospitality.
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Today we visited four different Moroccan schools. This morning Ms. Cooper, Mr. Benhammou and I co-taught lessons at Taghnari High School. Moroccan students also wrote their letters back to you. I have a few more to collect tomorrow, but they were very excited about the opportunity to make an American friend and practice their English.
After those classes, we visited Group Scolaire des Nations, a new private school in Fkih Ben Saleh. The school includes primary and middle levels. The facilities are impressive. The school is brand new with large classrooms, science labs, and even a gymnasium. They are also building a theater, fine arts, and music space, which is very uncommon in Morocco. We go to observe a third grade class learning English. Most students, even in the private schools, don't begin to learn English until ninth grade, but the school includes foreign language instruction in the elementary grades. These students read a story for us in English. They are well on their way to being multi-lingual. After lunch with Mr. Benhammou and his family (remember, Moroccans go home for lunch), we returned to Institution La Fontaine, the private school where Mr. Benhammou also teaches English as a foreign language. Students shared a skit and a presentation with us about Moroccan. Ms. Cooper and I also talked with them about education in the U.S., our schools, and our students. Students asked and answered questions, some of which I have on video to share when I return. Our day ended with a visit to a very rural school run by an NGO (non-governmental organization). I don't have the correct spelling, but I will share the name of the school when I get it. We were guests at the English club's meeting. Middle school students, all girls, though a few boys joined us later, interviewed. They also answered our questions about Morocco, shared their artwork, and sang songs. Like in the United States, there is a wide range of schools and educational opportunities for students. Equity is an issue which which I continue to struggle: it's incredibly frustrating to know what does work and be unable to implement what works because of socioeconomic conditions and/or bureaucracy. But no matter the school, we've met incredibly motivated students and teachers who are working hard to create better opportunities for themselves and their communities. Today Mr. Benhammou brought Ms. Cooper and myself to Institution la Fontaine, the private school where he teaches middle school English. Today felt more like a "normal" school day for me since we taught four periods (four hours) in a row.
Today's lesson was a modified version of the collocations "to do" and "to make" that we taught yesterday. Mr. Benhammou took the direct instruction materials that I created for the collocations and turned them into an inquiry lesson. I've noticed that direct instruction (teacher lectures students) is the primary method of delivery here in Morocco for a variety of reasons, but especially because of crowded classrooms. He also took the lead on "charades" to encourage students to use their English language skills to communicate with one another. I really appreciate his willingness to try new instructional methods, especially from two teachers who teach in a different content area. His openness in particular is something that I think all teachers, including myself, should aspire toward. In a previous post, I referred to the Chinese proverb, "Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day; teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime." I would like to revise that proverb just a bit and add that when we teach each other, we feed our community. This week has been about "feeding" our educational communities abroad and at home, and because of the share challenges and shared ideas, I know that I will return home full. Today Ms. Cooper and I taught a lesson to the 11th grade students on collocations (words frequently juxtaposed) for "to do" and "to make." The class was small by Moroccan standards with only about 20 students. I did have the students take notes briefly, and we used those notes for a modified version of "two-corners" and "charades." They did an excellent job with the lesson, especially considering that these words can be confusing for English language learners. For instance, why do we "do the dishes" but "make the bed?" In the afternoon, both Ms. Cooper and I gave presentations about classroom management and engagement strategies. One of the biggest concerns of Moroccan teachers is engaging their students so that they are motivated to learn English. Language proficiency is highly valued here, with many students who are proficient in three or four languages. To learn English, both teachers and students face the additional challenge of crowded classrooms, with anywhere from 30 to 70 students. There is little space to move around.
Thus, I have two questions for you today:
*I am taking pictures, I promise. I'll share them as soon as I get a better connection. Tighnari High School welcomed us today for morning classes and a special afternoon with their seniors. In the morning, we observed our host, Mr. Benhammou, whom the students call "Teacher," teaching a vocabulary lesson using Dolly Parton's "Coat of Many Colors." Students also started their unit on humor, which included a skit from Mr. Bean. This is one of the smallest English classes with eight girls and thirteen boys. I also noticed that students raise their index fingers to be called on, not their hands. At the end of the lesson, students discussed whether humor is universal or culture-bound. What do you think, C-S students? Is humor universal or culture-bound? How do you know? In the afternoon, the senior class put on a special program for us. Ms. Cooper and I presented photos and a video from our schools in the U.S. and answered a few questions about education and culture. Then students gave presentations about Morocco, gender equality, and climate change; they acted in a sketch comedy; and they read their own poetry and sang for us.
It was wonderful to hear their thoughts and ideas about problems that we share as a global community: gender equality, motivation and self-confidence, and climate change. I was also humbled by their proficiency in English, especially their enthusiasm for speaking and writing. For many students, English is their third or fourth language, and they don't begin studying English until ninth grade. As I continue to reflect in this experience, my takeaway for today is the importance of conversation. I wish that I could have brought all of you with me to listen to the Moroccan students and share your ideas. Though I could not do this on this particular trip, I do hope that through your letters and this blog, we can start that dialogue. Our day started with a visit to the Moroccan-America Commission on Educational and Cultural Exchange (MACECE). Our hosts were Dr. Jame Miller, Mohamed Chrayah, Oussama El Addouli, and Ahlam Daoudi. Dr. Miller was formerly a geography professor at Clemson (before he retired to do this job). He shared some of his extensive knowledge of Moroccan history and geography with us, with a focus on the effects of French and Spanish colonialism and the border disputes with Algeria. He also shared with us some additional information about the Fulbright Program in Morocco. Our host teachers here in Morocco have completed similar programs through MACECE, International Leaders in Education Program (ILEP) or Teaching Excellence & Achievement Program (TEA). These programs bring international teachers to the United States for training in methodology, curriculum development, lesson planning, leadership development, and technology training. There is also a practical component in U.S. public schools. Near the end of this session, one of my colleagues asked what we can do to support progress and reform in Moroccan education. Dr. Miller reminded us that just being here, with IREX, is an important way to support teachers and students here in Morocco and at home. He also warned us of the dangers of aide. It's easy to gather up school supplies and books, but international shipping costs often prevent even the most well-intentioned. There is also an expensive import tax that burdens recipients. Even if donations make it to Morocco, the Ministry of Education has to approve everything. Our in-country coordinator has worked hard getting us approvals to be here and to visit schools. In the afternoon, we visited Ecole Normale Supérieure (ENS) for a forum on global education. U.S. teachers presented to the Moroccan preservice teachers (who just started student teaching), their host (cooperating) teachers, and the faculty. The preservice teachers also shared their work with us, specifically on the importance of extracurricular activities for Moroccan students and the training and practice they've undertaken to ensure that they are prepared for the classroom. These teachers, though they face incredible challenges, are going to lead education reforms in Morocco. They are passionate, forward-thinking, creative, and optimistic. Since the Ministry of Education ultimately decides where they will teach, they are going to face extreme challenges in often remote environments. Even in the face of these challenges, they seem ready to meet the needs of their students. As I reflect on yesterday, I think one of the most important actions we can take to support Moroccan education is to support the funding and programs of the U.S. Department of State. The recently released federal budget proposal includes drastic cuts to programs like IREX that develop relationships and collaboration among educators internationally. These programs improve teaching and learning across the world and ultimately create space for agency--the capacity of individuals to act independently and make their own free choices. While the proverb is a bit cliché, I think it applies in this case: Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime. Today we learned more about education in Morocco and visited two public high schools in Rabat. I also learned to take a better selfie, but more on that later... In Morocco, education is free at all levels, including preschool and university. Though there are private schools and universities, most students attend the public schools. Families must purchase their own school supplies, including textbooks. The class sizes typically range from 20-40 students. The language of instruction is classical Arabic, though French is the language of instruction for advanced math and science. Students begin learning French their third year of primary school. Students learn English, Spanish, German, and Italian as foreign languages. Thus, most Moroccans speak at least two languages and many, including students, are proficient in four. Morocco has had many successful education reforms, but they still face many challenges. Even though education is free, the illiteracy rate remains high. The drop out rate, especially in high school, is also high. This is due to a variety of reasons: lack of transportation, high retention rates during exam years, and low employment rates for new graduates. Morocco has a centralized Ministry of Education that controls the curriculum as well as determines where teachers teach. Though there is a push to modernize the syllabuses as well as improve equity among urban and rural students, as well as among girls and boys. This morning we visited Moulay Youssef High School in the center of Rabat, near the palace. the school was established as a French colonial school in 1916. It includes secondary and preparatory classes. This afternoon we visited Abi Dar Alghiffari School, another top school, which was established in 1984 and felt similar to C-S with its emphasis on collaboration and critical thinking. Rather than getting into great detail about our visits, observations, and presentations, check out the photos from our day. The students and teachers were incredibly welcoming. The students asked great questions about the U.S. and answered all of our questions about Morocco. We started our day with a visit to the U.S. Embassy where we met Rebecca Smoak, Regional English Language Officer. Rebecca spoke with us about the education system in Morocco and the programs that the U.S. supports to improve education in Morocco. I'll be sharing more about the Moroccan education system later on this week. The rest of our day focused on an overview of Moroccan History and Culture. Houria Kerdhi is our in-country consultant on this trip. She is an English teacher at a local public school and an ILEP alumni (another program similar to TGC that brings teachers from abroad to the U.S.). Houria started with a brief overview of Moroccan geography and emphasized the diversity of the landscape: from the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts to the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara Dessert. She referred to the geography throughout her presentation since Morocco's strategic location, linking Africa with Europe, has influenced its history. While she went into great detail, I just want to share a basic timeline to give you a sense of the important periods in Moroccan history. Prehistory
People have lived in the region since 8000 B.C. In 1100 B.C. the Phoenicians settled in the region. In 500 B.C. the Carthaginians took over their settlements. They were followed by the Romans and then the Byzantines. Islam
The Arabs arrived in 600-700 A.D. and are considered immigrants, not invaders. They brought Islam to the Amazigh people and begin the Moroccan Dynasties including the present Alaouite Dynasty. Colonial Period
In 1911, French troops entered Fes. By 1912, Morocco was a French and Spanish protectorate (Spanish in the north and south). The French created a double-structured administration, but the colonial government was truly in charge while the king was only really a figure-head. In 1943, King Mohamed V met with FDR at the Anfa Conference to gain support for Moroccan independence, which was not granted until 1956. Later, in 1958, Tanger (north) and Tarfaya were returned to Morocco. Modern Morocco
Morocco's constitution was written and ratified in 1962 during the reign of King Hassan II. The first elections were held in 1963. Though there is ambivalence about Hassan II, he is credited with modernizing Morocco and maintaining unity. Morocco Today
The current king is Mohamed VI, crowned in 1999. He is known for his pioneering reforms, including more rights and protections for women, as well as human development projects to fight poverty. In 2011, during the Arab Spring, he lead constitutional reforms to empower parliament. While Morocco faces many challenges, such as the conflict in Western Sahara, migration, poverty, and environmental issues, the economy is growing. Morocco is a predominantly Islamic country though there are small Jewish populations. The ways in which people practice their religion varies greatly, from very conservative to less so. While students in school do have a designated time for prayer, not all students pray, and it is not mandatory. In Morocco, many different languages are spoken. At home, people speak Moroccan Arabic (Darija) but learn standard Arabic at school. There is also Amazigh (Berber language). Students learn French as a foreign language in school due to the French colonial period and its influence on education in Morocco even today. In the northwest, you'll also hear Spanish. Food is an important part of Moroccan culture. There is breakfast, lunch, snack, and a late dinner. Families eat meals together. The largest meal is normally lunch, which people (including students) go home to eat. Meals are typically homemade (no fast food or anything frozen). Tagine, vegetables and meat cooked with spices, is a common dish usually served with bread. Ingredients are fresh and locally grown. Meals often end with a traditional Moroccan tea: sweetened green tea with mint. Clothing varies widely. Many people wear traditional clothes: djellaba (robe-like outfit with a hood), caftan, or jabador (tunic with pants). Moroccan shoes are called babouches. Traditional dress varies according to region. People, especially young people, wear European-style clothes. For instance, skinny jeans are common here. Moroccans do dress conservatively, however, and I have not seen a single person, male or female, in shorts. Since we learned a bit of Moroccan Arabic for our letters, I wanted to share a bit more:
"salam o alaykom" = peace upon you (greeting) "shokran" = thank you "safi baraka shokran" = no thank you "ana smiti..." = My nam is... "beslama" = goodbye My New Year's resolution was to learn to pack light. I travel often, especially recently, with the intentions of taking only a backpack of exactly what I need and schlepping no more. When I went to Spain in 2008, I packed two giant suitcases for my four month study abroad. Both were barely under the weight limit, and when I traveled on the weekends, I had to take one of the giants and pay baggage fees on discount airlines. Last summer, I bought several books on my travels which I had to put on my carry-on to keep from exceeding the weight limit. I ended up needing to see a chiropractor almost immediately on arriving home. This trip, though I had good intentions, I definitely overpacked.
I have a rolling duffle with a mix of casual and professional clothes for school. I have the school supplies (thank you to everyone who donated!) for my host teacher and his school. I also crammed in all of my toiletries and haircare necessities that probably aren't really that necessary. I also have several pounds of technology to blog and to teach lessons on both sides of the Atlantic (I'm checking Google Classroom, too!). Of course, I had to bring gifts from upstate New York to share with my Moroccan colleagues: Corning Glass and Treats! Those of you traveling in the spring or planning to travel at all in your lives, learn from my packing mistakes. Traveling light makes for a far pleasanter experience, especially when you're visiting multiple places on a single trip. So my top five packing tips, in no particular order:
Though I did not follow my own advice and my giant bag is sitting next to me, it's 7:14 a.m. in Paris, I'll be in Rabat in a few hours, and you are going to enjoy a snow day today. Not too shabby for a Tuesday in March. |
Mrs. ShepardTeacher, ELL tutor, traveler, hiker, reader, and aspiring citizen of the world. Archives
April 2019
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